One-shot precision insectoid pest killer.

Crossbolt safety.

Shoulder fired and natural site picture (such as a shotgun).

Pistol grip (for greatest accuracy).

Large scale for adult shooter (this is no kids toy).

Current ammo configuration: #64 3-1/2x1/4 rubber band.

Length: 38-3/4 inches.

Weight: Approx. 2-1/2 pounds.

Maximum range (one #64 band): 25 feet.

Maximum effective range (one #64 band): 10 feet.

Normal operational range (one #64 band): 4-5 feet.

Low weight self-adjusting stock (rigid enough to be effective, flexible to adjust to shooter).

Durable construction (only fasteners to hold it together and the heaviest coat hangers available).

Hefty trigger group mechanism (no calibration required and handles high power loads).

Variable power to adjust from small house flies to large hornets.

Detachable receiver group (for larger or smaller rubber band types and power).

Construction from materials on-hand (no money spent).

Assembled in under 4 hours (a Saturday morning project).

 

THE PERFECT RUBBER BAND MISSILE SYSTEM

The human hand with a rubber band.

This system is effective because of its lack of any parts to propel a rubber band except what is needed: a stretched rubber band being held is one spot, and released from the other spot.

Place a rubber band on your left-hand forefinger. Now stretch it with your right hand. Aim your forefinger at something. Release your right hand hold on the band and as the band travels towards your left hand, minutely drop your hand so as the band leaves your hand, it encounters no friction except for that encountered by your forefinger tip.

There can be no more practical way to launch a single rubber band if pure power and unhindered travel is desired.

Limitations of this system.

The major limitations to this type of system are obvious.

First, you are limited to what kind of ammo you can use (4 foot band travel is out of the question).

Second, the natural forces are in action that makes consistent band placement difficult. Consistent shot picture is crucial to consistent band placement.

Third, you are limited to power levels that your fingers can handle. At best, a normal person can hold two rubber bands without the forefinger buckling under the strain.

It is clear that a mechanical system to replace the hand-and-band system will address the shortcomings: consistency, accuracy, and power.

 

MECHANICAL IMPLEMENTATION: THE BASIC COMPONENTS

Ammo to suit purpose.

The ammo selected should be selected for the intended purpose of the RBG.

Small thin bands are good for small flies.

Long thin bands are good for longer ranges and offer more hitting mass than small thin bands.

Short fat bands are good for pests that are within 2 foot away, but any farther the effectiveness is diminished.

Medium thick bands seem to be the most versatile. This is what the RBG-2002 uses (#64 3-1/2x3/4 band). This size of band handles any insectoid pest, and also allows for multiple bands to be coupled (for greater powers). Three #64 bands on the RBG-2002 will dent a standard soda can in half at 18 inches (more than enough for even hornets and wood bees).

Large thick bands (up to 1/2 inch thick and relaxed size to more than 4 inches) offer more power than what is needed for insectoid pests. In fact, with a band travel of 3-4 feet, the power would cause damage to what it hits and could be classified as a missile weapon (by law enforcement).

Such a rubber band gun could be used to hunt small mammals and birds (I wouldn't).

Many rubberbands in a single shot gives a shotgun effect: it is possible to pick pests out of the air.

Trigger mechanism.

The trigger should be made out of one piece. I selected a speargun-type trigger mechanism because of its easy to make and implement.

The trigger piece should allow enough length to give the shooter the ability to release one or several rubber bands in one trigger pull.

The trigger should be made out of a hard material. I used to use regular cotter pins, but they always required maintenance when used often. The RBG-2002 uses a trigger made out of 1/16" industrial coat hanger wire, and was bent in a vise to its proper shape.

Be sure the release hook on the trigger is free from burrs and sharp edges and does not cut the band when it is released.

Barrel mechanism.

The barrel is a replaceable piece of 1/16th inch heavy-duty coat hanger.

I have tried long barrels, but there is something about them that causes the rubber bands to foul no matter what kind of bend angle is imposed on the barrel.

The end of the barrel that engages the rubber band is an 'S' curve that holds the rubber band flush with the end of the receiver.

Receiver mechanism.

In the perfect rubber band delivery system, there is no hindrance of the band while it is in flight.

In implementation, a long flat plane provides the band a path to travel along to help guide it. The barrel is mounted to the end of the receiver and together make the receiver group.

The purpose of the receiver group is to provide the rubber band with a directable platform to travel along that has a low-friction catch (the barrel). In practice, the receiver group should not impede the band on its travel to release (otherwise, this imposes drag and limits power/accuracy).

Variable power mechanism.

Variable power allows for different levels of hitting power to be delivered.

This is implemented on a RBG as multiple rubber bands.

The RBG-2002 (with #64 ammo) needs only 1 rubber band to kill any common fly (without mashing it into whatever it is being shot on).

One band (#64) will disable a wasp, but not dismember it. The RBG will dismember at 2-1/2 feet or less.

Two bands will shatter a fly, dismember a wasp, and stain whatever the insects are shot on. I would use two bands on a hornet or a wood bee.

Three bands of power would be overkill for anything insectoid (and is too powerful for this type of use).

I would use three bands of power on a scorpion or a tarantula because they look so freaky.

Constraints.

[1] The trigger release point must be as close to the barrel run without interfering.

This is so the band travel is not disrupted with a minute jump caused by engaging the receiver. This could lead to anything from inaccuracies and limited range to total failure.

[2] The trigger pull must be totally straight.

The rubber band must be released totally straight, as a sideways trigger pull causes a minute travel disruption and results in hitting to the right (or left) of the target (depending on what direction the sideways trigger pull is going). Note in this picture I used 2 inch long rails on the top and bottom of the trigger chamber to guide the top and bottom in a straight path.

[3] The barrel cannot be long.

Any length longer than what is absolutely needed interferes with band travel. In my experience, the band appears to get fouled at the end of the rubberband run on the tip of the barrel. No amount of tip bending and different tip shapes has solved this limitation to date.

[4] The total band travel cannot exceed about 95% of the total stretch a rubber band.

The total band travel is the total distance the band travels from hold point to release point. This distance is the total of the small amount imposed by the barrel, the receiver, and the trigger hold/release point.

This distance cannot exceed 90-95% of the total stretch the band is capable of. Exactly why, I am not sure, but it appears that the band travel is able to be fouled because of the limitations of the hook-and-release system of the RGB-2002 if the band is too tight.

A pre-stretched rubber band is required for the current configuration of the RGB-2002. After pre-stretch, than band will stretch another 1 inch or so beyond the current rubber band travel on the RBG-2002.

 

Construction materials.

The previous RBGs I made used glue, electrical tape, and cheap coat hangers and required constant tuning and maintenance. All materials were from items on hand at the time.

The RBG-2002 was made out of 1-1/4x1/2 drywall stud material (from Menards), heavy bolts and wingnuts, drywall screws, heavy washers, and 1/16" heavy wire coat hanger material. This made the RBG heavy-duty and maintenance free.

The pistol grip is nothing more than a 1-1/4" portion of wooden rod made into a quick handle. Previous RBGs used cheap knife handle replacements, or simple stick-type grips.

I chose not to be elaborate, as I can't be spending 2 weeks on something like this (I work for a living).

Click here for a detailed drawing of the major parts, the trigger, and the crossbolt safety. The next sections refer to this drawing to explain some of the design.

Lower receiver group.

In the drawing of the RBG-2002, this is section C. Note that this section has 2 parts that are physically connected. This allows the upper receiver group (barrel and receiver) to be up- or down- graded for specific purposes. I made the lower and upper receiver detachable with 2 wingnut and bolts. The trigger is placed into a cavity carved out nearly 1/2" in diameter and about 1-1/2 " long. The cross bolt safety is detailed in the drawing. It merely prevents the trigger release from depressing making it safe. Note the structure that resembles a handle on the top. This protects the release mechanism and provides some protection against the dreaded snapback (its never happened before). I put an upside down wingnut on the top of the trigger guide rail tie down bolt to serve as a rear site. The pistol grip is from some wooden rod material I happen to have.

Upper receiver group.

The barrel is nothing more than a 6-1/2" rod with an 'S' curve at one end and bent down 'L' at the other. The 'L' angle portion points slightly toward the 'S' curve end for greater stability (see drawing). The barrel is also bent down ever so slightly (1-2 degrees down) to help direct the rubber band away from the top of the 'S' curve tip. I have a hand-bent screw clamp to hold down the end. In the past, I used electrical tape (but I had to rebuild it on occasion). The barrel sits in a small groove to lower its profile so its level with the receiver. Even though in the second picture the barrel clamp looks rough, it is actually smooth enough to not matter much (most critical is the other side which must be smooth). Note in the last picture the detachable upper receiver group for quick changes!

Trigger/release group.

The trigger is made out of some 1/16" coat hanger material and is bent into a usable shape (see pictures). The trigger is shimmed on both sides in the trigger chamber with washers to restrict free-play. Notice in the pictures that the trigger is guided into a straight path by the upper and lower trigger rails. They are made out of 1/16" coat hanger material and simply fasten in place. In this picture, you can see it loaded. Note also the other side of the cross bolt safety.

Stock.

A stock for a rubber band gun? Yes, a stock does help provide a consistent site picture (accuracy). The stock is made out of some 1/16" coat hanger material, and is attached to a block of wood serving as a butt stock. The presence of a stock is the difference between accuracy and no accuracy.

The construction of this pattern goes back to 1983 when I was stung by a wasp while painting a house.

The first RBG created was a side-by-side two shot, short thick band shotgun-like RBG that used several bands.

The two shot RBG was designed to shoot wasps out of the air, kill on impact, and destroy nests while painting.

A long rifle version was also made in 1984 to address in-house pests.

Before my wife threw them out in 1996, the long rifle and shotgun RBGs had killed hundreds of insects.

Backyard artillery - The rubberband Gatlin gun web site (real cool!).

Basic rubberband gun - The basic DIY rubberband gun web site.

Lego rubberband gun - The DIY Lego rubberband gun web site (this is cool).

Challenger rubberband gun - They look like dueling pistols.

TargetMaster - This one is cool because of the variety of rubberband guns.

The Magnum-12 web site - This one is also cool because of the variety of rubberband guns.

The rubberband gun - I don't know how to classify this one (how does it work?).